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Matching surfboard to waves
Matching a surfboard to the waves is about choosing the right board for the conditions you’re surfing. Understanding how different waves influence your board choice gives you the knowledge to make a more informed decision. Choosing the right board can make the difference between a good surf session and a bad one.
BOARD TYPES
Boards built for one kind of wave
Some waves ask for a board designed specifically for them. What changes in the shape and why it works.
—Step up for big barrels
—More coming soon
Explore board types →
CASE STUDIES
Real conditions, two boards, one verdict
A set of conditions, two boards from the same quiver and the reasoning behind which one to choose.
—Beachbreak – small windswell
—Pointbreak – long period swell
—Fins for big waves
—Teahupo’o – 3 meter barrel
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Waves explained
Waves can be understood through three main elements: size, type and shape. These determine how a wave breaks and directly influence your surfboard choice.
Wave size
The easiest and most consistent way is to measure wave height from the bottom to the top of the wave on the front face.
This differs from, for instance, the Hawaiian scale, which measures wave height differently and tends to report smaller sizes for the same waves.
Wave type
Beachbreak
Waves break over a sandy bottom. Peaks shift often as the sand moves, making conditions more unpredictable.
Reefbreak
Waves break over rock or coral. Shape is consistent and can be powerful.
Pointbreak
Waves break along a point of land. Bottom can be rock or sand. They peel in a uniform direction along the shoreline.
Wave shape
- Bottom contour (seafloor shape): If the seafloor rises gradually from deep to shallow water, the wave will be mellow. If it rises quickly, the wave will be hollow.
- Wave period: Waves with a longer period move faster and are more likely to produce hollow waves.
It comes down to how much time the wave has to move from deep to shallow water. Less time results in a hollow wave.